Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru,

(two of the four barrels were new; the production here was just 25 hectoliters per hectare, according to Landanger): Bright ruby. Sexy perfume of black raspberry, minerals, brown spices, licorice pastille and underbrush. Plush, sweet and smooth, offering superb concentration, energy and balance. Utterly seamless wine with terrific inner-mouth floral lift. The wine's strong fruit blows past the firm, late-arriving tannins on the juicy, gripping, very long finish.