Charmes Chambertin, Les Mazoyères, Grand Cru, 2012

(from vines planted in 1913; 12.8% natural alcohol in 2012, from a crop level of just 18 hectoliters per hectare owing to widespread millerandage; 80% vendange entier; 70% new oak): Saturated bright ruby-red. Deep, superripe aromas of black raspberry, violet, mocha and smoked meat. Fat, sweet and voluminous without coming across as heavy. Chewy with extract, with the stem component giving good lift to the middle palate. There's something a touch dry and peppery on the middle palate but the finish is long and the tannins sweet, and this rather uncompromising wine improved steadily in the glass. For now, I'll give this one the benefit of a slight nagging doubt.