Meursault, Les Charmes, 1er Cru, 2009

(bottled ten days before my visit): Very closed, slightly reduced nose offers citrus fruits, vanilla, hazelnut and white truffle. Rich, sweet, pliant and deep; this has the weight and depth of the biggest California chardonnays but more energy and finesse than all but the very finest of them. Strong extract here contributes to an impression of increasing freshness. Really saturates the mouth and reverberates on the round, dry finish.