Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru, 2009

(two-thirds new oak; has the highest pH of these 2009s, at 3.7) Red-ruby. Knockout multidimensional nose combines red berries, licorice, orange peel and pungent smoky minerality. Dense, sappy, sweet and very young; much more about soil than pinot noir fruit. Offers intriguing saline and orange peel notes, plus a licorice quality that Hervet says comes from soil rich in silica (like Vosne-Romanee Les Reignots). Wonderfully tactile finish offers outstanding lift and some sweet new oak. This got better and better in the glass.