Hubert Lamy

Domaine Hubert Lamy, based in the often-overlooked yet increasingly celebrated village of Saint-Aubin, has emerged as one of Burgundy's most compelling addresses. While the Lamy family traces its viticultural roots in Saint-Aubin back to 1640, the modern domaine was formally established by Hubert Lamy in 1973. It is, however, under the meticulous and visionary leadership of his son, Olivier Lamy, who joined in 1995, that the domaine has truly soared to prominence, challenging established hierarchies, and redefining the potential of this corner of the Côte de Beaune.

Olivier Lamy is widely regarded as a vigneron's vigneron – an obsessive perfectionist whose tireless work in the vineyard forms the bedrock of the Domaine’s exceptional quality. He has systematically elevated practices, notably implementing famously short and late pruning which proved crucial in mitigating the devastating 2016 frost. His philosophy extends to the vineyard's very foundations, with pioneering high-density plantings (up to 30,000 vines per hectare in some parcels, echoing historical densities) aimed at forcing vines deeper into the limestone bedrock, yielding smaller, more concentrated berries. Organic methods are practiced, though not certified, with a deep respect for the terroir and a focus on low yields through meticulous de-budding and green harvesting.

The domaine encompasses approximately 18.5 hectares, with a strong emphasis on Chardonnay (around 80% of plantings) across a diverse array of appellations including Saint-Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Santenay, alongside a smaller proportion of Pinot Noir. Olivier's winemaking in the cellar is equally precise and thoughtful. He favours larger format barrels, particularly 600-litre demi-muids, over smaller barriques, and employs a notably sparing use of new oak (indeed most wines seeing no new oak at all). Fermentations are slow, with indigenous yeasts, and the wines often undergo extended élevage in barrel, followed by a period in tank, with sulphur additions kept to a minimum, based on analysis rather than systematic application.

The hallmark of Domaine Hubert Lamy's wines is their striking energy, purity, and profound expression of terroir. The whites, in particular, are celebrated for their vibrant acidity, mineral tension, and remarkable aging potential, often possessing a crystalline clarity that allows the nuances of each vineyard to shine through. Olivier Lamy's relentless pursuit of excellence has firmly cemented Domaine Hubert Lamy's reputation as a benchmark producer, proving that with talent and dedication, the wines of Saint-Aubin can rival, and often surpass, those from more heralded appellations.