Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, 2010

(bottled two weeks before my visit; 13.4% alcohol, vs. 13% for the Bienvenue): Bright, green-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of white peach, pineapple, curry powder, medicinal herbs and musky lees. Sappy, chewy and dry, but completely locked up following the bottling and showing much less personality than the nose suggests. But this wonderfully tactile, fine-grained wine finishes with outstanding tangy persistence. This, too, will need a decade in the cellar.