Latricieres Chambertin, Grand Cru, 2005

Austere in good way and very stony. Tannic but slick and smooth. Initially less open or attractive than 2006 but some air quickly unveils this wine’s wonderfully complex fruit and savoury qualities. Sophisticated hedgerow fruit, raspberry and loganberry with notes of herb and black cherry. All the elements are exquisitely in place here, so well balanced and evidently with plenty more potential. Top notch. A vineyard that produces wines of distinct personality, always on the rockier more mineral and austere side of the spectrum. They can be a little taciturn on first approach but age seamlessly and gracefully given the chance.