critic reviews
Aromas of dark berries cassis and cherries mingled with spices and orange rind in a complex bouquet introduce the 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, a medium to full-bodied, complete wine that in some respects represents the synthesis of the d'Angerville premiers crus—the finesse and perfume of Caillerets, the layers of Taillepieds and the structure of Champans, united in a whole that's more than the sum of its parts.
The 2023 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru seems to have a different aromatic profile from the other Premier Crus. More introverted at first with darker fruit as well as sea cave and light loamy scents, it takes time to cohere in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip. It is structured with good tension yet more backward and less giving than, say, Champans or Taillepieds at the moment. This is the one cuvée I would cellar for several years before broaching.