Le Montrachet, Grand Cru, 2023

Large scale, but such definition, vibrancy, and detail. It may not actually be noticeably bigger than the top 1er Crus, but it has an even more pixellated sense of precision, and it grows, gaining in momentum, and building to a hugely long, true peacock’s tail of fruit and stone on the finish. Muscled yet lean. Sensational.