Chevalier Montrachet, Grand Cru, 2009
Always the most linear and taut of Dancer’s wines, the 2009 boasts a knife-edge balance. Elegant but very, very long indeed, there is no shortage of power here, stony mineral but plump and fruity round the edges. Hints of nectarine stone, citrus rind and dry stones, there is also something Riesling-esque about this with its taut, savoury character. Superb.
critic reviews
(sulfured the day before my visit) Crushed stone, ginger and quinine on the high-pitched nose. Rich and dense but very tight, a bit dried by the SO2 and hard to taste now. This has plenty of alcoholic clout but the stuffing to support it. The crop level from these vines planted in 1952 was just 22 hectoliters per hectare, according to Dancer. I suspect this one will need several years of cellaring.