critic reviews
From the commune of Tauxieres and the 2017 vintage, Bollinger's new NV Brut Blanc de Noirs PN TX17 exhibits aromas of crisp pear, orange zest and wet stones mingled with subtle hints of warm bread and dried fruits. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and fleshy, with tangy acids and impressive ripeness for the vintage, it concludes with an elegantly mordant finish. This doesn't strike me as a year built to make old bones, but it should nonetheless enjoy over a decade's evolution.
The NV PN TX 17, 100% Pinot Noir from Tauxières, is the next wine in Bollinger’s new series of single-village Champagnes. Bright and punchy, the 2017 is redolent of pear, dried flowers, mint, chalk and sage. Aromatically, the 2017 could easily be mistaken for a Blanc de Blancs such is its purity, but the richness and resonance of Pinot are unmistakable on the palate. This is an especially, vinous, layered Champagne that offers striking interplay between its intense fruit and the mineral, saline and savory-laced frame that holds it all together. The only thing this could use is a bit more body, as it is a touch austere. Disgorged: February, 2022.