Coeur de Cuvée
    Vilmart et Cie

    Coeur de Cuvée,



    Vilmart et Cie, Coeur de Cuvée, 2014

    Justerini & Brooks Tasting note
    Vilmart et Cie, Coeur de Cuvée, 2014

    Like the Grand Cellier d’Or, this comes from the prime vineyard of Les Blanches Voies, though the fruit here is sourced from a parcel of even older vines. In the press Laurent restricts this to the very heart of the pressing, extracting just 1500 lts from a 4000kg load, before fermentation and elevage in barriques of between one and three years old. in bottle this receives 60 months sur lie prior to disgorgement. The product of a cooler year, this has glorious purity and true finesse – the very heart of the pressing providing a wine of delicacy and intricate intensity as salty citrus zest flavours gather into a long and laser focussed finish. As good as this is now, there’s clearly much more to come here.



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    Vilmart et Cie

    Vilmart et Cie

    Situated in the northern Montagne de Reims village of Rilly-la-Montagne, Vilmart is one of the great grower operations, 8 generations old, yet one that remains somewhat under the radar. Today led by the affable Laurent Champs, the estate produces some of the region’s most sophisticated champagnes. The use of oak barrels and fuders is always judiciously handled, and its holdings, which are something of a paradox being predominantly Chardonnay in an area generally famed for Pinot Noir, are dominated by old vines. Primarily planted at the northern end of the village, the Vilmart vineyards benefit from south and south-east facing exposures, on intensely chalky soils – a terroir ideally suited to growing top notch Chardonnay.

    Pressing is still done in a traditional 4000 kg basket press, following which all the vintage wines are fermented and aged in Burgundian barrels. Malo is eschewed, Laurent preferring to focus on energy, elegance and tension in his finished wines. Farming has been biodynamic for the past 20 years and the house has employed no herbicides or insecticides since Laurent took over. They were recently certified as HVE.

    These are serious wines, crisp and intense, full of finesse and brimming with luminous purity; the top wines remind us a little bit of Krug, though through the lens of Chardonnay dominated blends – it’s a great combination, as devotees will be quick to tell you.

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