Châteauneuf du Pape, Roussanne V.V., 2010

Light yellow. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes Meyer lemon, pear skin, jasmine and minerals. Sappy and penetrating, projecting a compelling blend of richness and vivacity. Powerful, incisive orchard fruit and candied citrus qualities put on weight with air and pick up a touch of bitter quinine that carries through the very long, palate-staining finish. Marc Perrin told me that it's a mistake to associate roussanne exclusively with opulence because when it's planted on limestone it keeps its freshness. The numbers are low on paper but what's in the glass is bright and contradicts the math and oenologists' predictions.