Carl Loewen

A new, exciting addition to the Justerini & Brooks list, Weingut Carl Loewen is run by the sociable, young Christopher Loewen, who aims to take this great old estate to new heights. His pursuit of fabulously characterful, traditional dry Riesling sets him apart in a region more renowned for sweeter styles. Here in the Upper Mosel, a preponderance of old vines and steep slopes—some of the steepest in Europe—makes for thrilling, light Rieslings full of character.

Christopher’s passion clearly lies in the vineyards; his eyes light up when discussing their ungrafted plots, which comprise some of the oldest Riesling vines in the world. Such is the quality of their massale selections in the Herrenberg (whose planting record dates to 1896) that Geisenheim University used their plant material to develop top-drawer Riesling clones, which have been widely adopted by some of the grandest producers in Germany.

Contrary to many of their peers, Loewen eschews green harvesting, believing that it can create an imbalance—sugar without nuance. Their old vines naturally reduce the yield by 30% on average, and those smaller berries, with a higher skin-to-juice ratio, negate the need for skin contact or lees stirring to build mouthfeel. “We want present but ripe acidity that is salty, not green. We take ten years to get a vineyard into shape; after that, we let it do what it wants. To produce really top-quality dry wines, it requires a different mindset in the vineyard. I am happy with what we have achieved in 2022.” Rightfully so, as this collection straddles the playful and the serious with great finesse.

The original Carl Loewen winery dates back to 1803. Christopher’s ancestors were among the first to buy in the Maximin Klosterlay during the time of secularization under Napoleon. In 2008, they took over the historic Weingut Carl Schmitt-Wagner, inheriting the Maximin Herrenberg in the process. This winery and its vineyards were considered a cultural monument in the Mosel, so it is with a deep sense of responsibility that Loewen continues to vinify wines from these historic sites. Bizarrely, Christopher has flown under the radar in the UK—until now, that is.

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