
critic reviews
White peach and white currant in jellied form are wreathed in thyme and mint and accompanied by a whiff of raw mushroom on an enticing nose and a glossy, faintly oily palate. Prominent sweetness is checked by an influx of fresh citrus, along with mouthwatering salinity. The vibrantly persistent finish introduces nippy aspects of green herbs as well as of botrytis spice. Like its counterpart from the Braune Kupp, this will need time to reveal its full stature.
The 2018 Scharzhofberger Auslese (AP #8) is coolish, clear, intense and concentrated on the flinty and even rocky nose with its crunchy notes of broken slate and lemon juice. On the palate, this is a generous, highly elegant and refined, beautifully balanced and salty-crystalline Auslese with concentrated but detailed, elegant fruit, finely grained minerals and a long, complex finish. An impressive, great vin de terroir. Tasted in June 2019.