critic reviews
Once again this year, Müller kept separate the wine sourced from his one remaining single-post-trained parcel, planted in 1958. This year, there was just a single such bottling, as the two casks were judged to play well together. The minimum price (once again eye-watering!) was set at auction, but the winery retains a substantial share for future sale. A soaring nose and luscious, tinglingly bright palate of white peach, white currant and lemon display formidable concentration allied to utmost delicacy. And even on the nose there are strongly stony and marine mineral intimations. The finish adds a mustard-seed-like crunch and sizzle, along with a wealth of mouthwateringly savory salinity and stony depth. This exhibits the sort of subtle, adeptly integrated sweetness for which the elusive but nowadays much-used (perhaps often misused) descriptor feinherb strikes me as fitting. “At one time, a portion of these vines were often left hanging in hope of Eiswein,” noted Veronika Lintner, “but as Eisweins have become fewer and resulted in a lot of grapes being lost, that seemed a real shame and it was decided to attempt Eiswein in a different parcel” (an attempt in which the estate in fact succeeded in this vintage).