Scharzhofberger, Riesling, Kabinett, 2007

After an anomalous 2006 vintage in which there was but a single Kabinett bottling, Mullers 2007 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett A.P. #3 is one of three. Bartlett pear and nut oils lead to a creamy yet delicate and refreshing palate, its fruit accented by salted, toasted nuts, browned butter, and wet stone, all of which carry into a lusciously long finish. As this took on air, it gained in transparency to mineral nuances and its sense of delicacy became increasingly striking. I imagine it should remain rewarding for at least 15 years, quite possibly longer. Egon Muller compares his 2007s with the wines of 1997, which here displayed exceptional purity and advanced, largely noble rot-free ripeness, although the total number of bottlings in 2007 was significantly smaller, and the number of Auslesen alone this year three times greater. (I missed tasting one Spatlese, A.P. #6 that sold out early on, and I have not yet tasted this years Trockenbeerenauslese, which hadnt even finished fermenting on the occasion when I tasted Mullers other 2007s.) Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY (212) 355 0700