Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, 2017
A GG built on the blue/grey slate minerality of Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr alongside fine, herbal green apple fruit. A deep core of dancing slate underpins this, from the first delicate sip through a fine mid palate to a finish reminiscent of sucking stones. Very complete, very Mosel.
critic reviews
A Riesling with a sunny disposition, this one prominently features lemon and grapefruit in a combination of zesty aromatic pungency and bittersweetness with bright juiciness. There is a silken feel and a pleasant hint of textural oiliness, along with a sense of extract-richness allied to buoyancy. As was the case with this collection’s non-Grosses Gewächs dry wines, nutty piquancy and a strong undertone of wet stone serve for finishing counterpoint, but here – in contrast with what one frequently observes in Grosse Gewächse, and despite lower residual sugar – I don’t experience the austerity that accrued to this year’s “SL" Kabinett and Spätlese trocken. Instead, there is a long burst of refreshing, citric juiciness and a hint of salinity that together leave one coveting the next sip. This appears to be one of those frequent instances where I have a decided preference for a wine that its grower prices as his or her “least” Grosses Gewächs; and growers are fond of telling me that I gravitate toward the most accessible bottling. Well, one can only appreciate what is currently accessible, and I sure do appreciate what’s on offer here!