Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, 2021
Plenty of peach and yellow fruits in a more concentrated, integrated style than we’ve seen previously. Ripe citrus, juicy with a fine, broad intensity and a little herb cream on the finish. Bottled at 7g/l residual sugar. They seek out the lighter clusters with small berries which are less susceptible to noble rot but are perfect for lending structure to the dry wines. From a tiny 0.4ha section of the vineyard planted in 1880 that remains, despite some obvious replanting, entirely ungrafted. Raised in traditional German fuder barrels for nine months rather than the usual six.
critic reviews
The 2021 Riesling Saarburger Rausch Grosses Gewächs is from 140-year-old vines, the oldest parcel in the Rausch. There almost is a tropical fruit note amidst the lemon and lime zest lift on the nose. The palate has immediate presence, and much fill with the slightest phenolic edge and a hint of silky tannin, as tender as a spiderweb. Lemon zestiness pervades this, planting a vertical stake of flavor that just goes on and on, making the mouth water. And while I know that fine wine deserves to be at the table, this absolutely qualifies as a vino da meditazione . Lemon serenity, clarity, precision. Wow. This is pitched at 8g/L of residual sweetness vis-à-vis 8.8g/L of acidity. (Dry)