2022
6x75cl
DP
£260.42
vintage
portfolio
2022
6x75cl
DP
£260.42
Plenty of peach and yellow fruits in a more concentrated, integrated style than we’ve seen previously. Ripe citrus, juicy with a fine, broad intensity and a little herb cream on the finish. Bottled at 7g/l residual sugar. They seek out the lighter clusters with small berries which are less susceptible to noble rot but are perfect for lending structure to the dry wines. From a tiny 0.4ha section of the vineyard planted in 1880 that remains, despite some obvious replanting, entirely ungrafted. Raised in traditional German fuder barrels for nine months rather than the usual six.
The life of a Saar Riesling grower is not an easy one. Possibly one of the coldest and most marginal corners of Germany, the Saar can produce some of the world’s great white wine in hot sunny years such as 1990. However, these are usually outnumbered by cold wet years resulting in over astringent and unripe wines. There are a small band of growers though who have a distinct advantage over the rest in the land that they own. A handful of Saar vineyards are steep enough and exposed enough to ensure a decent level of grape ripening even in poor years. Hanno Zilliken is fortunate enough to have sizeable holdings in Saarburg’s great vineyard, the steep south-facing Rausch. He exploits these slate based vines to the maximum through careful pruning and hand selection. When the wine is pressed, it gently descends by gravity into the oak casks lying in Hanno’s dark damp cellars. The wines are prime examples of Saar Riesling, being mouthwateringly taut, mineral and sophisticated.
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