2020
6x75cl
DP
£140.42
vintage
portfolio
2020
6x75cl
DP
£140.42
Expressive, typically Saar in style, fresh but not too crispy” was how Dorothee described the Rausch Kabinett. A very fine nose shows off green fruits and delicate herbs, lemon thyme perhaps, mint certainly. Given the early harvest this is precise and very clear, light and luminous, but also juicy across the palate. It’s not overly crispy, in fact the acids are ripe and lovely and make for really quite an inviting Kabinett this early stage. Fermented and aged in traditional fuders and bottled at 60g/l residual sugar.
The life of a Saar Riesling grower is not an easy one. Possibly one of the coldest and most marginal corners of Germany, the Saar can produce some of the world’s great white wine in hot sunny years such as 1990. However, these are usually outnumbered by cold wet years resulting in over astringent and unripe wines. There are a small band of growers though who have a distinct advantage over the rest in the land that they own. A handful of Saar vineyards are steep enough and exposed enough to ensure a decent level of grape ripening even in poor years. Hanno Zilliken is fortunate enough to have sizeable holdings in Saarburg’s great vineyard, the steep south-facing Rausch. He exploits these slate based vines to the maximum through careful pruning and hand selection. When the wine is pressed, it gently descends by gravity into the oak casks lying in Hanno’s dark damp cellars. The wines are prime examples of Saar Riesling, being mouthwateringly taut, mineral and sophisticated.
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