Felsenberg, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, 2015
Plenty of rich ripe fruit, quince and grapefruit, background acids, palpable extract and almost chewy fruit skin notes, pear and russet apple, broad and fruit facing in character, expansive and focussing in to a fine dry finish. A wine of breadth over drive. A steeply sloping vineyard of Volcanic soils that gives highly expressive and vigorous Grosse Gewächse.
critic reviews
Lavender and huckleberry, crushed stone and peach kernel combine for a penetrating nose, and the palate impression, backed by 13% alcohol, is correspondingly intense, almost to the point of severity. The combination of fullness and palpably high extract with slightly lower acidity than in several other dry Dönnhoff 2015s generates a marginally less bright or intricate impression. But there is still welcome fresh lime juiciness; and glowing piquancy of peach kernel and juniper berry, allied with pungency of lavender and incisive impingements of fresh ginger, make for a formidably gripping, energetically invigorating finish.