critic reviews
(for 375 ml.) A complex aromatic melange of orchard, bush and citrus fruits in different forms of superconcentration. Comes onto the palate like honey and candied raspberry drops, showing flavors of apricot jam, distilled essence of currant, and a liqueur of myriad other fruits. The finish, though dominated by candied fruit flavors, is nevertheless the personification of lift and elegance. By the time he harvested this in mid-December, says Donnhoff, he was about ready to throw in the towel. I'm not keen on allowing grapes to hang any longer-not for psychological reasons but on account of the health of the fruit. This year there were several days when I swore to myself 'this is it'. Either it freezes tomorrow or we forget it. 2 stars.
For two years in a row, 2001 and 2002, Helmut Donnhoff earned perfect scores for the following effort, an amazing feat when one realizes Ive only bestowed that honor on four young wines. While the 2003 Riesling Eiswein Oberhauser Brucke did not complete the hat-trick, it is exceptional. Deep aromas of honeyed botrytis can be found in its nuanced aromatics. Medium-bodied, unbelievably dense, concentrated, and long, this superb effort coats the palate with oily waves of black cherry jam, white chocolate, and molasses. Unlike most of the super-high-end sweet 2003s I tasted from Germany, this one did not abandon grace and balance in favor of syrupy sweetness. That being said, while it will most certainly last for many decades, its burnt sugar flavors lead me to recommend drinking it over the next 15 years. Bravo to Helmut Donnhoff for this magical line-up! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300