Assmannshauser Hollenberg, Spätburgunder, Grosses Gewächs, 2015
The historic, south-west facing Hollenberg vineyard has been planted with Pinot Noir since the 11th Century and August’s ungrafted vines produce one of Germany’s great Spätburgunders. 2015 represents the first bottling of this cuvee since 2012, a sign of the quality to be found in this vintage. Powerful, sleek flavours of deep cherry and wild raspberry are complemented by notes of salt and slate. There's power but also great control here, the palate sheer with sleek fruit notes, slick tannins and a fine dancing minerality, giving new levels of lift and elegance. Richness harnessed. Very good indeed.
critic reviews
Intensely ripe cassis and dark cherry are shadowed by their high-toned distilled counterparts and accented by tamarind, nutmeg, burley tobacco and cherry pit. There is refinement of tannin and even an underlying sense of creaminess that contrasts with the corresponding basic and “Cuvée Max” bottlings, and it’s probably no coincidence that despite a higher percentage of new wood being employed here, it is less in evidence. At most, what oak brings flavor-wise is a well-integrated maple syrup-like suggestion of caramelized resin that delightfully complements the savory-saline element familiar from this year’s “Cuvée Max” – which here is even more successful in stimulating the salivary glands. The finish is palate-saturating and sustained.