Oestricher Lenchen, Spätlese 303,

The Spreitzers typically bottle much more of this branded wine than they do of a “regular” Lenchen Spätlese. And given how little of their Lenchen Riesling struck them as appropriate for Spätlese, this year there is only this one, and just 1,600 bottles of it rather than the usual 5-6,000. “At 100 Oechsle,” reports Andreas Spreitzer, “the grapes were already beyond what we would consider ‘normal’ Spätlese but at the same lacked the over-ripeness of Auslese.” I could debate that last claim, but the results are certainly impressive in their opulent way. Pear and quince jellies laced with candied lime dominate on the nose and then convey a confectionary cast to the performance on an overtly sweet, glycerol-slicked, oily-rich palate. Musky inner-mouth suggestions of peony perfume and a hint of caramel lend an aura of decadence that persists into the soothingly-lingering, prominently sweet finish. I would not be surprised if this gained definition and complexity with time in bottle. It harbors nine grams of acidity; but for now at least, those don’t cash-out in terms of brightness or animation, and they seem barely sufficient to contain keep the high residual sugar from becoming saccharine. (For the history of this bottling and its name, see especially my review of its vintage 2015 instantiation.)