critic reviews
The dazzlingly multifaceted aromatic display here incorporates iris, orange blossom, lime, kumquat, white peach, sea breeze and smoky, flinty, dusty crushed stone. The feel is subtly glossy but firm. Piquancy, smokiness, salinity and zest that were promised on the nose reemerge with impressive force, building into a finish of explosive intensity that delivers showers of stone and ocean spray, augmented by electro-charged tongue-tingling citrus, biting peppercorn and mustard seed. At the same time – as with this year’s Hipping – the wine unfailingly refreshes with a torrent of sheer juice. As usual, this bottling was auctioned – achieving a price that you and I would probably prefer not to even contemplate. I’d be very surprised if this wine does not decisively defy prevailing standards of longevity for Grosse Gewächse.