Barbaresco, Sori San Lorenzo, 2001
Here the clay-limestone soils are the deepest of the three Barbaresco Crus. The Tuffeau limestone layer is at its lowest here. A muscular and powerful Barbaresco but an expressive one, too. The most complex array of flavours of the Barbarescos - notes of flowers and wild herbs mingling with woody spices brambles and hints of strawberry. Layered, deep, big flavours with plenty of drive carrying them forward. Clearly less ready and knit together in its youth than the other two Crus, such is the force and raw power of the wine, but it has all of the stuffing and structure to suggest a long life. Fermentation and maceration is for 3 weeks followed by 24 months in oak barrels - one year in tonneaux and one year in large casks.
critic reviews
The 2001 Sorì San Lorenzo is all about finesse and texture. Ripe, silky tannins provide the backdrop as the 2001 opens up in the glass. The 2001 is still fresh, primary and very young. Ideally, it needs another 5 years or so in the cellar. There is little doubt the 2001 is shaping up to be one of the most elegant Sorì San Lorenzos ever made. Today, it is dazzling.
The 2001 Sori San Lorenzo is the richest and deepest of these 2001s. It remains cool, inward and totally implosive. Dark fruit, leather, goudron and licorice are some of the notes that begin to emerge over time. The 2001 is dazzling, but it is also very much on the muscular side and needs time to soften. I imagine it will drink beautifully for another 20 years, and that is likely to be conservative in light of the glacial pace with which the San Lorenzo ages. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. Angelo Gaja isnt the talkative type too often these days. Most of the time I am greeted, left alone in a room to taste, and then greeted again before I leave. On this day, though, Gaja started talking about vintages, and in particular the misconception that wines from hot years dont age. Gaja cited 1961, a warm year in Piedmont, and one of the most legendary at the time. The wines aged just fine, added Gaja. What struck me most, though, was how clear Gajas recollection was of events that transpired fifty years ago. I know only one other person in Piedmont who has a similarly sharp memory that goes that far back. What does that have to do with these 2001s? Not much, except that it seemed like an interesting anecdote to share. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900