Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, 35th Anniversary, 2017

A wine that offers a freshness and composure that belies 2017’s hot, dry summer conditions. This is a celebration of all that Grattamacco represents: old world sophistication and poise, Mediterranean sunshine and incredible value for money. Smooth, dark, husky blackcurrant fruit, mixed with spice, dried herbs and a resinous sapidity. The wine does not lack for concentration but flows across the palate with surprising ease, thanks to a juicy profile and cashmere-soft tannic structure. Superb. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese the special grey clay, marl and limestone soils here help give their Sangiovese a certain depth. From vineyards on steep slopes in the hills 100 metres above sea level and made in a gently-extracted way this is a complex Bolgheri designed for unadulterated drinking pleasure rather than for the trophy cabinet. The wine was aged for 21 months in barriques (40% new,) as opposed to the usual 18 months, with a further 12 months’ refinement in bottle.