Graham's, Vintage Port, 1970
Charles Symington thinks this vintage of Graham’s could be “one of the best ever made”. A very bold statement from a house that is hardly bereft of great wines. Stylistically, it is cut from similar cloth as Fonseca, but perhaps carries it with a little more elegance, and a more red fruited and savoury character. A Cima Corgo driven Port, primarily reliant on Quinta dos Malvedos whose fruit accounts for 3/4 of the blend. The high proportion of Touriga National in the blend delivers quintessential Graham’s power, while Touriga Franca endows rose and citrus blossom, along with tobacco. Mint, eucalyptus and garrigue join and permeate in waves. The palate has a juicy black cherry and a plummy fruit profile that is flecked with vanilla, nutmeg and clove. Slate minerality and beautiful floral and rock rose aromas sustain the long finish. This is a wonderfully stylish Graham’s that will only improve.
critic reviews
Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous. The 1970 is a monumental vintage port and one of the greats of the vintage. It begs to be drunk now, although it will last for at least another two decades.