Syrah, 2023
Donovan’s “Concrete Syrah” has won many hearts and minds since its introduction in 2021. Superficially it sounds so simple: a crackling, juicy, un-oaked, peppery Syrah that functions as the early-drinking gateway to the more serious Ava bottling. In the end though, it is the drinking wine of a master Syrah winemaker, which remains extremely fairly priced. In 2024, 5-10% of the wine actually went into barrel, bringing a little added richness. Notes of black tea, olives, plums and currants compliment this delicious straight Syrah, from schist-based vineyards, fermented with 100% whole clusters.
critic reviews
The 2023 Syrah comes from vines on schist soils, whole-bunch-fermented and aged in concrete. This has a very potent, floral nose with stunning delineation, blossoming in the glass with veins of blue fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid red fruit. It’s supremely well structured, with fine-boned tannins and a dash of white pepper on the finish. This is within touching distance of the brilliant 2022 and constitutes one of the standout reds this season.