La Vitoriana, La Vizcaina de Vinos, Bierzo, 2019
As always, La Vitoriana exudes a sense of class and complexity that for this taster puts it above the rest. The 2019 is endowed with more muscle and power than we’ve seen in recent years, but it matches that with a very tight line of acidity and waves of harmonious dark and red berried fruits, herbs, and dustings of licorice and cherry stones to emerge simultaneously high toned and serious. Planted in 1881, La Vitoriana is still on Pie Franco rootstocks and faces north at 600m elevation. Whole bunch fermented in large, open-top wooden fermenters with no temperature control and kept on the skins for around 90 days before aging in 500L and 225L French casks, none new, for around 18 months. The La Vizcaina bottling comes from the rented parcels, whereas the Ultreia bottling, at over five times the price, comes from a tiny, estate-owned plot.
critic reviews
The 2019 La Vizcaina La Vitoriana comes from sandy soils and mostly north-facing vines, delivering elegant and floral wines. It's very young and fruit-driven, perhaps not as complex as the 2020. All of these reds are around 13.5% alcohol, medium-bodied and quite harmonious. 2019 was one of the larger crops, and there are 7,000 bottles of this.
Full ruby. Spice- and smoke-accented cherry and dark berry scents show very good energy and focus. Blackberry, bitter cherry and candied licorice on the palate, along with suggestions of dark chocolate and succulent herbs. Opens up slowly with air and finishes very long and spicy, with smooth, even tannins and lingering florality.