La Vitoriana, La Vizcaina de Vinos, Bierzo, 2019

As always, La Vitoriana exudes a sense of class and complexity that for this taster puts it above the rest. The 2019 is endowed with more muscle and power than we’ve seen in recent years, but it matches that with a very tight line of acidity and waves of harmonious dark and red berried fruits, herbs, and dustings of licorice and cherry stones to emerge simultaneously high toned and serious. Planted in 1881, La Vitoriana is still on Pie Franco rootstocks and faces north at 600m elevation. Whole bunch fermented in large, open-top wooden fermenters with no temperature control and kept on the skins for around 90 days before aging in 500L and 225L French casks, none new, for around 18 months. The La Vizcaina bottling comes from the rented parcels, whereas the Ultreia bottling, at over five times the price, comes from a tiny, estate-owned plot.