Rioja, Gran Reserva 890, 2004
Ruby to mahogany, the initial attack flows from coconut to sweet anise through liquorice and red cherry - this needs a little air to open up . On the plate this is reserved at first, calm, rich and young. Very suave tannins are wrapped up in rich languid fruit, a refinement of structure that marks this out as a bit different and initially less dependent on oak than previous vintages. Dried cherry, wild strawberry, liquorice, iron and blood, with a note of warm spice on the finish. This has a reserve and calm poise that marks it out as a lovely 890 worthy of cellaring.
critic reviews
Vivid red. The nose displays an array of ripe red fruits, pungent flowers and exotic spices, with vanilla bean and coconut accents building with air. Sweet, broad and luscious, offering intense cherry-vanilla and raspberry liqueur flavors that deepen on the back half. Shows excellent depth as well as finesse, with velvety tannins adding shape to the very long, gripping finish. This suave, seamless Rioja spent six years in American oak barrels.