Rioja, Gran Reserva 890, 2011
With a blend of 95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo, it comes across as more overt and muscular than 904, with bruised plum and damson, as well as a little sloe and blackcurrant blossom on the nose. Tobacco leaf, lit cigar, orange peel and a very subtle tomato leaf flavour appear on the mid palate. Coffee, mocha, trodden leaves and a little nutmeg linger on the enduring and powerful finish. There are no hard edges here – it is svelte, broad, beautifully integrated and oh, so enjoyable to drink. Given the track record of this estate, it would seem likely this will be singing for many years to come.
critic reviews
The 2011 Gran Reserva 890 from Rioja Alta is a fully evolved red. Already mahogany in hue, it's steeped in tertiary complexity. Aromas include wild herbs like thyme and oregano alongside hints of cola and licorice, clearly revealing its maturity. This is silky and vibrant, with tension and finely polished tannins that glide across the palate. There's precision to the development here. This gradually unfurls notes of black olive, a faint tarry edge and a medley of herbal tones. It is a classic Rioja of depth and elegance. The animal whiff on the finish is subtle, more an indication of character than a flaw, adding an extra layer to its sophisticated composition.
After the otherworldly 2010 comes the 2011 Gran Reserva 890, their longest-aging red, matured in used American oak barrels for six years and produced just three or four times per decade. It's mostly Tempranillo with 3% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo, with the Graciano vinified separately. 2011 was a warm and ripe year, but the wine has medium ripeness and 14% alcohol, with a pH of 3.7 and 5.8 grams of acidity. It has a tertiary nose, with notes of wet fur, leather, truffles, spices, earth and forest floor, decayed leaves and a hint of smoke. The palate was velvety, with fully resolved tannins and a long and very tasty finish. 60,956 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2016.