Horseshoe Vineyard, Chardonnay, 2019
Horseshoe 2019 is a wine of real structure and weight but also great concentration and energy – a combination of power and persistence that is very true to the wines from this site. The soils here are around 8 million years older than the Alpine vineyard, being composed of Monterey shale, a brittle, friable, shale so light it feels like balsa wood in the hand. Its structure makes it very easy for the roots to penetrate so Kevin and Jeff are finding exponential gains relative to vine age from this vineyard. This 2019 has a mineral smokiness on the nose, not unlike an aroma of slate, then thyme, yellow peach and fresh lemon, orange blossom and aromatic white flowers that mingle with a salty smoky stoniness on the palate. Superb.
critic reviews
The 2019 Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard radiates from the glass with classy but eager aromas of green apple, persimmon, nectarine and wet slate. The palate is textural, polished and lifted with diamond-cut precision and framed with incisive, invigorating acidity. The finish balances sun-kissed richness with crisp, zesty structure, endlessly bringing you back to the glass. While the Pinot Noir from this site may have the edge, the Chardonnay is on nearly equal footing in recalibrating what is possible in California.
The 2019 Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard is laced with the essence of crushed rocks, white pepper, orchard fruit, white flowers, chalk and mint. It is a bit less forthcoming than the Alpine Chardonnay. Saline notes build into the palate staining finish. This classically austere young Chardonnay just needs time in bottle. Tasted next to the Alpine, the Horseshoe has more mid-palate weight and feeling of phenolic intensity. The differences between the two are remarkable considering the sites are just 400 yards apart. The Horseshoe is planted on Monterey shale, while the soils at Alpine are Purisima, a formation that is about 8 million years younger. Such is the complexity of the Santa Cruz Mountains.