Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, 2009
It has been a remarkable year at VCC: Aléxandre Thienpont lost 80% of his yield from the weather and his own subsequent declassification, so he will only be producing 800 cases of Grand Vin instead of the usual 4,000. What there is, though, will be sublime. We tasted separate barrels, one of Merlot (planted in 1932) that had a gorgeous clarity of sweet fruit and a stunning, silky texture with fine tannins, and one of Cabernet Franc (planted in 1948), which offered pure blackcurrant on the nose, and was restrained and classic on the palate. No Cabernet Sauvignon at all will be used in the final blend, which will favour Cabernet Franc in an 80/20 ratio. This will be an exquisite treat for those lucky enough to get a case.
critic reviews
Rich and deep plum in colour, still with a vibrant reflection. This is right at the top tier of the 2009s, juicy and controlled, capturing appellation typicty in the soft waves of grilled caramel without being sweet or heavy, opens to waves of violet and tomato leaf, sculpted, juicy, delicious.
The 2009 Vieux Château Certan, which has a similar blend to the 1998, was cropped at 40hl/ha. It is fascinating to compare this directly with the preceding vintage. This is ripe and concentrated with black cherries, wild mint and licorice. Typical 2009 Right Bank in style. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, fleshy with a strong savory element mixed with brown spices. I maintain that this is more a 2009 than a VCC, which is why I am prudent with my score and juxtaposed it against the following vintage: there's only one winner. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.
The 2009's nearly 14% natural alcohol, exquisite ripeness, and incredible complex bouquet of Asian spices, fruitcake, licorice, smoke, blackberries and black currants are to die for. A blend of 84% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses a viscous texture as well as a freshness and vibrancy that are remarkable given the wines weight, richness and potential massiveness. This extraordinary effort is one of the finest Vieux Chateau Certans made over the last sixty years. It will undoubtedly shut down in bottle, requiring a decade or more of cellaring. It should keep for 50 years thereafter. Proprietor Thienpont thinks it is a modern day version of the 1948. As I wrote in my barrel tasting notes, the 2009 ranks alongside four of the legendary vintages of Vieux Chateau Certans ancient past, 1945, 1947, 1948 and 1950. It is undoubtedly a cleaner wine than those older vintages, and the selection process under proprietor Alexandre Thienpont was far more severe in 2009 than it would have been sixty years ago.