Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol,

Skilful winemaking, with fragrant curling aromatics, gunsmoke, cigar. This is a year for taking the pleasure in aromatics, so make sure you give it time to open up, as there is a lovely structure here that curls around red roses, raspberry puree, full of joy. No chaptilisation, very light fining. 65% new oak, 3.63ph. Harvest September 24 to October 6.

The 2021 Vieux Chateau Certan is composed of 77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet-purple colored, it slowly grows on the nose to reveal vibrant, perfumed notes of black raspberries, fresh black plums, and redcurrant jelly, plus suggestions of cast-iron pan, lilacs, rose oil, cinnamon stick, and aniseed with a waft of forest floor. The medium-bodied palate is very tightly wound, featuring loads of layers of red and black fruits intertwined with mineral sparks, supported by very fine-grained tannins and bold freshness, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. A wine that shimmers from start to finish. The alcohol is 13.3% and the pH is 3.62.

As I mentioned during en primeur, the 2021 Vieux-Château-Certan is driven by the Cabernet components that represent 23% of the blend. Graphite, pencil shavings, tobacco and light gravelly scents percolate through the black fruit. This is unapologetically classic in style. The palate has exquisite balance and harmony—very poised with a perfect line of acidity. There is a linearity that suits VCC's style of Pomerol and wonderful salinity on the finish that lingers. This transcends the limitations of the growing season. Outstanding.