
Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol, 2003
It has been a remarkable year at VCC: Aléxandre Thienpont lost 80% of his yield from the weather and his own subsequent declassification, so he will only be producing 800 cases of Grand Vin instead of the usual 4,000. What there is, though, will be sublime. We tasted separate barrels, one of Merlot (planted in 1932) that had a gorgeous clarity of sweet fruit and a stunning, silky texture with fine tannins, and one of Cabernet Franc (planted in 1948), which offered pure blackcurrant on the nose, and was restrained and classic on the palate. No Cabernet Sauvignon at all will be used in the final blend, which will favour Cabernet Franc in an 80/20 ratio. This will be an exquisite treat for those lucky enough to get a case.
critic reviews
The 2003 Vieux Château Certan, which was picked 1 to 12 September, is a success in context of a very challenging growing season, saved by its Cabernets. It has a rich nose with black cherries, allspice and light sandalwood aromas, clearly dictated but not dominated by the heat of that summer. The palate is medium-bodied and redeemed by its fine line of acidity, blessed with attractive desiccated orange rind notes towards the harmonious finish. Fine. Tasted blind over dinner in Hong Kong.
Only 850 cases were made in 2003, the lowest production ever at this estate. The blend was 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot (the Merlot was baked in the heat of June, July and August). This wine has a 92- to 93-point bouquet, but only an 87-point palate. The complexity of the Cabernet Franc component provides a gorgeous nose of new saddle leather, forest floor, sous-bois, blueberries and black currants. Lush, attractive and beautifully fruity on the attack, it fades in the mouth, and lacks the depth and texture to back up the exquisite aromatics and entry. This fully mature 2003 is a success in this appellation that experienced many difficulties. Drink it over the next few years.
product details
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