Cheval des Andes, Mendoza,

Savoury black fruits with scorched earth smoke, eucalyptus and cocoa bean, given focus and a sense of momentum by fresh acidities and a juicy finish. Malbec has the ability as does Pinot Noir to either drink early or to age for years, and you feel the elasticity and promise of the tannins in this wine. Blend at the end of ageing. Aged in 2500-litre oak casks, 70% new oak.

The seventeenth vintage of Cheval des Andes, a wine that has undergone a model transformation. I recently tried the 2007, and it’s fascinating to trace the different stages of its evolution, all of which say something about the contemporary history of Argentine wine. To sum up, it started out with a French love of concentration and ripeness and ended up with an equally French love of equilibrium and local terroir. The 2017 is a new beginning in itself. A blend of Malbec with 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, it presents a bold nose of fresh fruit such as sweet and sour cherry with fleshy aromas and a touch of white pepper over a bold, woody backdrop. A fluid wine, slightly taut on the palate with medium structure, a delicate feel and active tannins well integrated into the terse texture, overall it is nuanced and full of flavor. Possesses a balance that respects the concentration of the vintage without ever letting it get out of hand. An Argentine wine made with more than a nod to French expertise.