Château Belair Monange, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion, 2009
We thought that the 2008 was astonishing, but the 2009 is even more remarkable. This is only the second vintage under the new name, and new Moueix ownership and we are delighted to report that 2008 was no fluke. This is an exceptional terroir (next to Ausone), and the steep limestone slopes are planted with exceptionally old vines that are capable of producing truly intellectual almost peerless St Emilion. Sadly the yields are miniscule due to the age of vines (some date back to the 1890s) and a rigorous policy of ploughing in the vineyard, but the result is spectacular; a real connoisseur's wine. The nose is packed with high toned notes of minerals, bright cherries; a bouquet of flowers. This is extremely complex and detailed with wonderfully precise, velvety fruit core of black cherries, summer berries, blueberries, currants overlaid with minerals and delightful hint of saline. This is so intense, lifted, precise, elegant and powerful. A beautifully poised and complete wine from a noble terroir.
critic reviews
Deep ruby in colour, crushed roses, incense and sandalwood on the opening, a fragrant reminder of the heat of the vintage, fleshy, lifted, spiced cumin, leather, peony, raspberry puree, ready to go, great stuff. The first full vintage under the Moueix family, after they bought from Pascal Dalbeck in 2008. 50% new oak for ageing. Renamed from Belair after Adèle Monange, who was the first of the Moueix family to live in St-Emilion when the family moved from Corrèze to Bordeaux.
Medium intensity baked plum aromatics, enticing and open, laced with campfire, cinnamon, incense, pumice stone, salted cracker, fennel, saffron, blackberry and sage. Great quality, giving the limestone kick, tightrope walking across the palate, a brilliant wine, juicy and individual, leaning in to its character, with a joyful welcome. 50% new oak for ageing.
The sophomore 2009 Belair-Monange has been variable from bottle to bottle so I was taken aback at the impressive performance here. It has a very opulent bouquet with plush red fruit, patisserie, candied orange peel, fig and dates. This is very open and expressive, very gourmand in style and though atypical, it is very seductive. The palate is almost viscous on the entry with plush red fruit, a touch of black pepper and oregano, slightly medicinal in style but very persistent. Blind, I thought it might be Tertre-Rôteboeuf but it turned out not to be. Still, this is just a superb showing. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.