critic reviews
A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2019 Calon Segur is deep garnet-purple in color. It skips out with bright, pretty scents of kirsch, black raspberries, and cassis, plus suggestions of cloves, cardamom, and star anise. The full-bodied palate delivers layer upon layer of black and red berries flavors, supported by super-firm, super-ripe tannins and bold freshness, finishing very long and minerally. A real head-turner!
The 2019 Calon Ségur lacks the luster of Phélan-Ségur on the nose, though there is good concentration, black fruit commingling with melted tar and pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fresh with pliant tannins, cohering nicely towards the finish that has ample flesh. Lovely texture with a persistent white pepper tinged finish. Not quite achieving the heights just after bottling, yet this Saint-Estèphe is heading in the right direction. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.
Vincent Millet (who can boast a doctorate in wine microbiology and who took up his post as Calon's technical director after a stint at Chateau Margaux) is doing everything right in terms of restructuring the estate's somewhat neglected vineyards with massal selections, higher density plantings, cover crops and precision viticulture. He's also cleaned up and modernized the winery. The 2019 Calon-Segur shows the impact of some of those changes already, offering up a rich bouquet of creme de cassis, licorice, warm spices and subtle hints of cigar box, followed by a full-bodied, broad and fleshy palate that's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and beautifully refined tannins. All this is very impressive, but the fly in the ointment is an alcohol level that flirts with 15% and makes itself felt on the warm, liqueured finish. Balance isn't a matter of mere numbers, of course, but despite its admirable qualities and the serious work behind it, I do have reservations about this wine's ultimate equilibrium. Time will tell. The good news is that Millet is actively exploring viticultural strategies to mitigate high alcohol levels.
Rich and silky in texture, full of ripe brambled fruits and powerfully concentrated tannins. Touch of reduction on the first nose that needs time to clear, lots to enjoy and it unquestionably makes an impression. Plenty of signature St Estèphe punch. Tasted twice. 40hl/ha yield, 100% new oak. Eric Boissenot consultant, Vincent Millet CEO and technical director.