Château Canon, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion,

The best for me since the 2010, just the perfect balance of ripeness, power, precision and finesse. This is more powerful on paper than the 2015 in terms of quantity of tannins but you feel them less because there are so many layers of flavour. Maple syrup, cocoa bean, cassis, black cherries, blueberries, violet and sage, with a saline kick on the finish. A wonderful example of what limestone can deliver. The texture is not silk, instead it has grip and grain, it holds you back and demands you stay around. Harvest September 22 to October 11. 45hl/hyield, 3.57ph, 65% new oak, harvest Setember 22 to October 11.

The 2016 Canon is deep garnet colored. It pirouettes out of the glass with energetic scents of Morello cherries, black raspberries, and fresh blueberries, plus wafts of lilacs, star anise, fallen leaves, and fragrant soil. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is exquisitely balanced with beautifully ripe, fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness supporting the perfumed, multi-layered fruits, leading to a very long and minerally finish on this beautiful wine.

The 2016 Canon offers red fruit on the nose, very detailed, along with scents of wilted rose petal, truffle and brown spices. I admire how understated this is initially, then stepping up through the gears with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins, gentle grip and a liberal sprinkling of cracked black pepper toward the finish. It maybe just lacks the persistence of its peers at the moment, but I suspect it is just beginning to close down for a period. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.