Château Cheval Blanc, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion,

Intense, indelible, with layer upon layer of blueberry, raspberry, pomegranate, fennel, liqourice, crayon, espresso, crushed rocks, just so much character and poise. The driest year at Cheval Blanc since 1959, with 71% of production from the 39ha estate in this wine, technical director Pierre Olivier Clouet. This continues to be bottled as Premier Grand Cru Classé A until the 2022 vintage, following its withdrawal from the ranking,which will make an interesting footnote for collectors I would imagine, but makes zero difference to the brilliance of what is in the bottle.

A blend of 65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2020 Cheval Blanc has more Merlot than usual as some of the young Cabernet Franc that would normally be used was not suitable this year but the Merlot was outstanding! It has a deep purple-black color and a pH of 3.7. The nose is very closed and tight to begin, needing a lot of swirling to coax out notes of plum preserves, black cherry compote, and blueberry pie, followed by suggestions of pencil shavings, clove oil, candied violets, cast-iron pan, and fertile loam, with a waft of wild sage. The medium to full-bodied palate is locked-up tight, with loads of layers, bound with a firm frame of grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and earthy. It will need a lot of time!

The 2020 Cheval Blanc contains a little more Merlot than other vintages, probably anomalous to other estates on the Right Bank. This was bottled at the beginning of July. It has almost clinical delineation on the nose. The 2020 is extremely well-focused, with subtle pressed iris and violet scents embroidered into the predominantly black fruit - quite serious in style. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, black fruit laced with blueberry, just a hint of brine and a composed, saline finish. It's a Cheval Blanc that will require a decade in bottle; not the most flamboyant in recent years, but it is intellectually satisfying without question.