Château Cheval Blanc, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion, 2016

Blending is a big job at Cheval. The estate is split into 45 plots, all of which are vinified individually. Every effort is made in the vineyard to achieve the best possible results from their diverse array of terroir. Once vinifications have started, Pierre-Olivier Clouet and his team taste each plot every day. That's a lot of tasting. We were lucky to taste a dozen samples with Pierre-Olivier and Arnaud in October - it was fascinating to see how each plot has such a unique character. Only with an intimate knowledge of each plot and such regular tasting can they judge when to stop macerations. Like many other top estates, the philosophy is to stop before coarse flavours are extracted. And then this process is continued; tasting every day, understanding the qualities of each plot, and building up an image of the final wine. They build complexity through diversity, and the 2016 Cheval Blanc is an ensemble of 33 plots. As with the Petit Cheval, this is all grace, charm and refinement, however, there is a serious, complex and large-scale wine lurking beneath. Somewhat introverted aromatically, but with coaxing a stunning bouquet of flowers, fresh pine cones, eucalyptus, cool cassis and crushed rocks emerges. Noble flavours of pure raspberry, crème de cassis and loganberry captivate the palate. Wave after wave of sumptuous, but reserved fruit, washes over the palate and lingers persistently on the mineral infused tannins. There is more than a hint of classicism and so much potential; this has a very bright and long future ahead.