Château Climens, 1er Cru Classé, Barsac, 2022

A bright, honey-gold hue. Waxed citrus fruits on the nose, with orange peel and candied nuts. The palate is a delight, with a rich density of dried citrus and peach, with mango and white pepper nuances, underpinned by a rich phenolic grip, and there is delicious acidity too. A very broad and opulent style of Climens, but it has the structural elements to cope, and the acidity takes on a more incisive position with every taste. Wonderfully bitter in the finish too, this and the acidity working to counter the lingering sweetness. An excellent Climens which makes the best of what this richer vintage had to offer. The residual sugar is 135 g/l.

The 2022 Climens is a wine made from two tries in early and late October after a long period of dry weather, giving a yield of 7.5 hl/ha (reduced by the dehydrating effect of the dry weather), and as always the wine is 100% Semillon. An absolutely glorious nose here, with plenty of fragrant orange and honeysuckle fruits, with a hint of barley sugar on the first bottle not found on the second, partnered with a strident mineral and flinty backbone, and a vague touch of reduction. The palate carries the velvety weight of the vintage, with bitter citrus, orange and flinty minerals, honeysuckle and beeswax, with a fresh acid profile, as well as a little oaky lactone which will of course fade. Beautifully tangible acidity here (although just 3.1 g/l on technical analysis) which copes very nicely with the rich residual sugar (135.2 g/l). A super Climens which combines opulence with bitterness and fresh acid drive, culminating in a great length. I adore the energy and drive on the finish. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 13.5%.

The 2022 Climens shows better now than at the Southwold tasting. There are fewer of those petrol scents noted just a few weeks back and more purity with touches of yellow flowers, lemon curd and saffron aromas delivered with fine delineation. The palate is well balanced with a smooth texture and notes of dried honey, vanilla pod and a hint of nougat. Its richness is countered by a silver thread of acidity. This is much more like it! What a superb Climens.