critic reviews
A small-volume cuvée, Frédéric and Jérôme describe this wine as "experimental", and its distribution (if it is commercially released) will be extremely limited, given that just a few hundred bottles were produced. Less than 30 mg/l sulphites added here, no filtration at all, and it wears the Vin Méthode Nature badge. It was fermented in steel, then matured in a Wine Globe, a similar programme to Lilium. Bottled in June 2024. An interesting nose, less incisive than the other cuvées, with a little desiccation to the fruit, and a touch of toasted almonds, lifted by herbal notes of mint and lemon balm. The palate is equally more textural, with a silky, seamless core of lightly dried fruits, underpinned by delightfully fresh acidity, before it finishes peppery and firm, with a long, lightly pithy grip. A charmer, with gorgeous texture and balance.
The 2023 Climens is 100% Semillon and has 130 g/l of residual sugar and a pH of 3.8. It has a medium lemon-straw color and offers notes of lime cordial, lemonade, and fresh grapefruit, leading to an undercurrent of acacia honey, candle wax, and fresh ginger. The palate delivers vibrant citrus flavors with spicy sparks and great tension, finishing long and fragrant.
How it is possible to sculpt such an opulent but precise and delicious wine out of such a tiny yield of 2.7hl/h is beyond me, but somehow Climens has achieved it. Stunning depths of juicy peach, nectarine, white tea, white truffle, pinceapple, saffron, mint, concentrated but aerian with a slice of steel. Just 4,000 bottles produced instead of the normal 10,00010h, 130g/l residual sugar. A tought vintage for Climens owner Jean-Hubert Moitry, but the results are impressive.
The 2023 Climens was picked from September 26 to October 3, with 80% aged in new oak barrels and 20% in WineGlobes. It is a perplexing sample. Of course, now under new ownership, there is greater use of WineGlobes in the blend. On the nose, I find myself searching for the Climens that I know and love. It's as if it has vanished from the room without a trace. The palate is better and amply weighted, but it just feels anonymous in a Sauternes vintage full of personality. I am not going to give a score based on this sample; I will wait until it’s in bottle.
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