Château de Fargues, Sauternes, 2003
The 'other' property of the Comte de Lur-Saluces (of Yquem), offered here en primeur for the first time. A small vineyard which produces a tiny amount of wine - this year only 1,800 cases. Standards and quality are extremely high, and the wine's power and intensity mimic those of Yquem. This wine will age effortlessly for 20 years, and will require at least 10 years cellaring to show its full greatness. Astoundingly rich and intense, yet fine and fresh, this is a very reasonable price for such an excellent wine.
critic reviews
The heat of the year was challenging for Sauternes, bringing about a harvest that came in almost one continuous pass, from September 14 to 25, one of the quickest on record, and ensuring a silky, creamy texture. Grilled toffee notes, with bitter mandarin peel, cinammon, gingerbread, baked apples and orange cake. A tawny, walnut colour that it is slightly deeper than the its surrounding vintages, suggesting it it is ageing a little faster, but the cloves and white pepper spice add a mouthwatering signoff. One third new oak. François Amirault winemaker.
The 2003 de Fargues offers 132-grams-per-liter residual sugar and an alcohol level of 13.92%. The grapes rapidly accumulated sugar, so they had to pick quickly, lest the sugar content ran out of control. Consequently, the harvest was concentrated in one intense week from September 19-25. Contrasting this directly against the 2005 and 2007, there is clearly not the same degree of definition and clarity. There is a touch of beeswax and honeysuckle but it needs more complexity. The palate has fine viscosity and spiciness on the entry orange zest, mandarin and dried apricot at its heart. There is a pleasing fatness and corpulence, but though the finish is nicely balanced, it does not take off like the 2005 or 2007. Tasted April 2013.