Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan,

A little subdued on this showing, I have had better bottles of the Haut-Brion 2009, but there is still a clearly powerful fruit and tannin structure, touches of black truffle, cocoa powder, bitter almond, charcoal and layers of dried rosemary and turmeric spice. A delicous wine with power and character, slight trace of dried frruit character that reflects the warmth of the year, and it needs time to open. Give it a good 30 minutes in the glass, and a few hours in a carafe, to loosen the muscular architecture, and allow a salty dark chocolate and dried fig character to add rich depths. 100% new oak, Jean-Philippe Delmas director.

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a powerful bouquet with ample blackberry, hoisin, crushed stone and cedar aromas, quite warm and welcoming but retaining satisfying delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, but it seems to tighten towards the fresh and persistent finish. Impressive but unequivocally not the best example. 14.3% alcohol. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.