Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan, 2020
Why oh why can't we sell the Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion wines. Year after year they produce exquisite wines from some of Bordeaux's most hallowed terroirs – and mature they are some of our favourite wines to drink. And yet commercially they remain the least sought after of the Firsts and pseudo-Firsts. Perhaps 2015 will be the vintage their fortunes change; they have made a spellbinding range. The 2015 Haut Brion is much more reserved than its neighbour, La Mission. Initially introverted, but with aeration notes of blackcurrant, damp earth, forest fruits and savoury notes of cooked meats and crushed stones emerge. This is a more austere and serious character here which is surprising given the higher proportion of Merlot, but this is often a feature of Haut Brion compared with the flamboyant nature of la Mission. One can tell that there is enormous potential on the palate; cool cassis and crème de mûre with an unbelievably persistent haunting air of cool aristocratic crunchy berry fruit. The tannins are sumptuous and firm, coated with cranberry and gravelly, stoney fruit. This is a very grown up, complex wine for the long term.
critic reviews
The 2020 Haut-Brion has a well-defined, quite cerebral nose—a mélange of red and black fruit, black olive, subtle estuarine scents. The oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent, almost viscous, very concentrated entry. There's enormous depth here, and though very ripe on the finish, it's perfectly controlled and focused. To use a phrase that I occasionally roll out...controlled decadence. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.
The 2020 Haut-Brion is more aromatically demonstrative than La Mission Haut-Brion, bursting with aromas of blackberries and raspberries mingled with licorice, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and nicely integrated new oak. Full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's rich and layered, with an enveloping core of fruit that's girdled by plenty of sweet, powdery tannin. Despite checking in at a similarly lofty alcoholic degree to the 2019, its more granular tannic profile tempers the vintage's sweetness of fruit and lends the wine a more classically proportioned, and more classically structured, profile.
The 2020 Haut Brion is a blend of 42.8% Merlot, 39.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17.5% Cabernet Franc, with a pH of 3.78. Deep garnet-purple in color, it opens with profound blackcurrant cordial, baked plums, and boysenberry preserves notes, leading to an undercurrent of graphite, iron ore, black truffles, and wood smoke, plus a hint of cardamom. The full-bodied palate is tightly knit with black fruit and mineral layers, supported by a rock-solid backbone of grainy tannins and seamless acidity, finishing long and savory.
Where usually Haut-Brion feels rooted in the Left Bank, this is almost Pomerol in its fleshy fruits. Strikingly powerful layers of plum, damson, cocoa, crushed rocks, bitter black chocolate. Easy to see the brilliance of this wine, one to stand back and admire, wiat for those muscular tannins and fresh acidities to melt together over the next few decades. Harvest from 7th to 29th September, 77% new oak.