Château Kirwan, 3eme Cru Classé, Margaux,

An enjoyable Kirwan, although feels softer in the horizontal against other 2009s than it did in a vertical at the estate. These tannins are fine, still providing plenty of support to the cassis and blackberry fruits, and the grilled campfire and cedar-infused mid palate is charming. Floral rose petal and peony aromatics and waves of sage add appellation character, but this softens a little too quickly on the finish to really stand up against the best Margaux of the vintage. Harvest September 22 to October 8. 45% new oak for ageing, 29hl/h yield after May hail. A single point down from the recent vertical.

The 2009 Kirwan showed extremely well, mocking my previous lukewarm reaction. It has an attractive cedar and graphite infused bouquet, plenty of black fruit with touches of wild mint developing with aeration. This coalesces nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine thread of acidity, gentle grip with hints of black pepper and cedar towards the nicely framed and persistent finish. Classy. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.