critic reviews
The harvest started on September 7, so almost as early as in 2022, but this was a less extreme year overall, and is showing a crunchy snap to the primary fruit. Mouthwatering and balanced, with delicious blueberry and blackberry character, with a subtle grilled cedar smoke. Still in the barrel, to be bottled in 2025. 53hl/h yield also, 50% oak for ageing.
The 2023 Kirwan is deep garnet-purple in color. Notes of cedar chest, baked blackberries, and boysenberries give way to an undercurrent of tobacco, dried herbs, and balsamic. The light to medium-bodied palate is lean, with soft tannins, a crisp backbone, and a rustic finish.
The 2023 Kirwan was tasted from two bottles as I was unhappy with the first. The second has a ripe red cherry and crushed strawberry nose that almost feels as if there is a touch of carbonic maceration! The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine structure, lightly spiced with a crisp and focused finish. Quite opulent in style, it is not a cerebral Margaux, though it has plenty of exuberance.